Kombe! November already? Hard to believe it was Oct 9th when Hilary’s parents left. A major highlight of their visit was our 2-day safari:
Day One: Tarangire National Park:
We met our driver, John, at the petrol station. In a safari-prepared Toyota Land-Cruiser, he was easy to spot. We made quick introductions, jumped in, and were on our way. Stuck in rush-hour traffic, John shared an interesting tidbit about the Arusha clock-tower
(which you can see in the famous John Wayne flick, Hatari!). It built at the center of Africa, i.e. the mid-way point
between Cairo and Capetown.
After a couple hours of driving we reached Tarangire. On the way, we passed Maasai villages, people carrying all manner of things on their heads, bicycles that John would hoot at and they would ease off the road, and broken down vehicles. Vehicles are required to carry reflective triangles to warn traffic in case they break down, but all breakdownees tend to go a step farther and place cut tree limbs and brush in front of and behind their vehicle for at least 50 yds to merge traffic around them. One lorry we passed had the usual triangles and brush, but underneath the driver was ostensibly making repairs. Looking closer we saw that he was actually fast asleep! Ah, the no hurry African lifestyle. As we turned off the main road toward the park and hit red dirt, children yelled and locals stared. Staring is not impolite here; everyone does it. Hope I can break the habit when we return to the states.
Reaching the parking lot at the park entrance, we spotted monkeys, zebras, elephants, and wildebeest, from the parking lot!!! At nearly every turn, we saw many animals and Tarangire did not disappoint. John also proved to be an extremely knowledgeable driver. For example, he explained about an interesting tree, the sausage tree with it’s long tubular sausage shaped fruit. If ingested, the fruit is intoxicating and produces drunk-like symptoms in people and animals. Hmmm, sounds like experience talking, perhaps?
Spotting and watching wild animals made the morning fly by. As John parked at the picnic spot alongside dozens of other Land Cruisers, he warned: “The little monkeys may look friendly, but don’t be fooled. They can be very aggressive and may try to steal your food.” “No problem, John!” we replied. Not a minute after we opened our box lunches and spread out on a picnic table, did a rogue monkey bound atop our table, snatched Bill’s bananas, and retreated just as quick. We got banana mugged by a monkey!!! From then on, I was on the defensive throwing rocks and water to prevent further advances.
After lunch, we got some excitement when a couple lions relaxing under a tree began stalking a group of zebras and wildebeests that came to the river for water. They didn’t make a catch, but caused quite a stampede and got everyone’s hearts beating faster. We also came across a misplaced spine and rib cage laying on the road. They were picked clean and there were big cat or hyena prints all around.
On the way out of the park, we past a huge Baobab tree John called poacher’s hide. We could imagine poachers concealing themselves inside the hollow base of the massive upside down tree, but we hollered at John to burn rubber out of there cause the biting tsetse flies were thick!!! (Baobab tree: g95 3/22 24-6; g90 8/22 20)
On our way from Tarangire to Ngorongoro, you get to pass through The Great Rift Valley, the namesake of rift valley fever. Did you realize the Great Rift Valley stretches from Israel to Mozambique, a 4,000 mile-long [6,400 km] trench that can be seen from the moon! Move over, Grand Canyon, until you get a deadly fever named after you! (Great Rift Valley: g97 7/22 p. 15)
About 6:00 P.M., we arrived at the Ngorongoro entrance gate and soon were relaxing at our lodge overlooking the crater rim.
Day Two: Ngorongoro Conservation Area (g05 1/8 15-17):
STOP, GIRAFFES!!! Somehow, through the fogged windows, tired eyes, and a heavy fog bank, Hilary spotted giraffes on the crater’s rim. “It’s very unusual to see giraffes at Ngorongoro”, John told us, but there they were grazing on leaves in the morning air. As we descended into the crater, we were excited to see moving specks across the broad crater – animals and vehicles, but were a little weary of another day of bumping around in the Land Cruiser.
First stop was the hippo pool. It was amazing to see such a dangerous creatures at close range in it’s natural habitat. There were babies and a mom even rolled over so the baby could nurse. They were very lazy and it would be easy to mistake them for rocks (except for the flinching ears) at first glance until you jumped on one.
Leaving the hippo pool, we saw many vehicles parked in one area. “Wow”, we thought, “there must be something REALLY GOOD over there – let’s go!” Yeah, it was absolutely nothing, so we motored on until we spotted a shy hyena that darted into a drain pipe under the road. Continuing on, John stopped and pointed out a barely visible pair of jackals darting around erratically about 300 yrs away. We watched for a few minutes and started to bore, when, fed up with the teasing, a cheetah rose up, faked an advance toward the jackals and pulled the dead carcass that it was devouring closer. We were all on our feet quick and over the next half hour watched the following cycle time after time: (1) the jackels advance too close, (2) the cheetah rise up, (3) the jackals run away, (4) the cheetah drop back down to continue eating. The cheetah must have been thinking “I caught it, just let me eat what I want, in peace, then you can have it!” After eating it’s fill, the cheetah did the slowest cat push-up to get on it’s feet. It’s full belly looked to be dragging and was as wide as a pregnant cat. John told us that cheetahs are rare in the crater because they live in the Serengeti, but food sometimes draws them over. This one ate it’s fill, for sure.
At this point, we became jaded safari goers, and only cats or new animals would get us out of our seats. Zebras? Seen 1000′s! Wildebeest? Those ugly things – seen ‘em. Warthogs? Ok, maybe the amiable warthog or ostrich would get us up and smiling just cause they are so fun! We did enjoy seeing a pride of five or six lions snoozing; they blended in so well with the tall brown grass that we almost missed them. They were overlooking a marshy area where elephants, zebra, wildebeest, and water buffalo were drinking and cooling themselves off.
As we arrived at the picnic site, we received more warnings. This time about the thieving birds. What is it with Africa animals? Don’t they know their place? We decided to eat in the cruiser, and that was a good idea. We watched a group lug a full-size cooler down to the waters edge for lunch and they were having a great time until a man standing with sandwich in hand, his arm hanging at his side got it taken by a bird that swooped under, grabbed, then was gone – didn’t even land. This attracted and emboldened more birds and that group retreated to their car. Another girl, lounging on the grass with a boxed lunch open beside her was also victimized.
After lunch we returned to the lions in time to see a zebra and wildebeest group approach the bluff. The lead zebra was too bold and got close enough for a lioness to give brief chase. With the show over, we continued on and happened to look back 15 mins. later to see a rising cloud of dust as a couple lions make a much better attempt at a wildebeest. Lions don’t enjoy a very good kill success rate and starvation is a leading killer. Can’t help to have dozens of land cruisers surrounding them, cramping their style. We were toward the end of the road, and began the crater road ascent and the return trip home, tired and dusty.
P.S – I found a way to connect my laptop to the Internet through my phone, but we get charged too much to load picture. Next time we make it to the Internet cafe, I’ll see about adding some pictures too.